If the indentations are absent from the serial number area, then the product was never refurbished by Nikon. Eichengrun does note, however, that Nikon aims to ensure that all factory refurbished products are as good as new in every regard.
nikon d800 serial number production date
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Information about an SD card is encoded in its internal card registries. One of these is the Card Identification (CID) Register, a 16 byte code that contains information that uniquely identifies the SD card, including the card serial number (PSN), manufacturer ID number (MID) and manufacture date (MDT). The CID register is set when the card is manufactured and cannot be changed after it is set. (According to SD card specification the information is only to be written once, however if a card does not conform to the specification this information could be changed!)
I noticed that the serial number starts with 89x3xxx. The one I have been using (refirb that I got a deal on early in the D810 cycle) starts with 3004xxx. It really does not matter to me if it is a gray market camera, but I am curious. Anyone with a US model have a serial number that starts with anything other than 3?
Hogan's explanation is general guidelines, but exceptions are not uncommon. I personally have a couple of Nikon USA DSLRs that have serial numbers that start with a 2 instead of 3. Having said that, the three Nikon USA D810 I have used all have serial numbers that start with a 3.
The serial numbers quoted represent only those I have seen so far so they are far from complete. I am sure that most serial numbers go well beyond the numbers given, and that some regional serial numbers are missing completely.
Having said that, the general serial numbers given by Thom Hogan don't really hold for most cameras these days, except for 2xxxxxx for Japan and 3xxxxxx for USA. Most older camera models seem to have fairly broad regions such as Europe, Asia, USA, while some later models have very specific regional serial numbers. For example I recently came across a D810 with 550xxxx serial number and a Korean warranty sheet. The serial number did not fit any other ranges so it appears this range is specific to Korea. I have come across one D810 with a 890xxxx serial number similar to the OP, the code above the barcode on the box was "D810 (ME)" which I speculated was Middle East, but on reflection I suppose it could also be Mexico (I don't get a lot of info from these regions so it's hard to say)
It is not uncommon for cameras with serial numbers from one region to end up in another region. Most of these are probably grey market (parallel imported), but sometimes they are imported by the official distributor, probably to make up numbers for a shipment. The only way to be certain a camera (or lens) is not grey market is to have the Nikon USA warranty sheet.
In the US, you need to call Nikon USA or perhaps ship the camera to them to get a definitive answer whether a camera is Nikon USA or so. I also read about some stories that Nikon USA's record was messed up and they refused to repair some Nikon cameras they had imported. Therefore apparently they have some kind of database or record with all the serial numbers, but clearly it is not a perfect system. And it took the camera owner some effort to demonstrate that it is a Nikon USA camera.
From what I have read a number of times, Nikon USA wouldn't identify whether an item is Nikon USA or not based on the serial number over the phone. Therefore, sending it to them is really the only way to get a definitive answer, and of course that is annoying. If you have a newer DSLR from 2012 on, the warranty slip is a reliable proof, but if you are dealing with something like a D300, D700, etc. there is no Nikon USA warranty slip.
Attached are the warranty slip for my D7100, bought new in 2013. Its serial number starts with 25..., not 3. And on the box for my D850 sample from Nikon USA, there is a sticker that says US and there is another sticker with its serial number (which indeed starts with a 3), but it should be pretty easy to print those labels yourself.
The D7100 is an exception to the rule that Nikon USA cameras have a 30xxxxx serial number. I assume they started at 25xxxxx instead to give them more head room so numbers would not increase to 40xxxxx and overlap another regional series.
As for the D810 with the 89 serial number, I checked my records, these cameras have "ME" on the code above the barcode, and are for the Middle East (United Arab Emirates etc) so there is a high chance they are grey market if sold in USA. But only Nikon USA knows for certain.
Stephen: I think that the LCD is largely affected by how long the unit is in actual use. If, for majority of its life the MF-28 is stored in some cool, dry and dark place, with no batteries in it, then it is likely to be operational for many years to come. Given there is no way of getting a brand new (unused, unopened) MF-28 Data back, there's no telling how much hassle-free time is left on any particular MF-28 unit, when bought used. It may very well be at the end of its rope and the seller may even know it. However, if the MF-28 powers up right there and then but does not the very next day, technically, it becomes my problem.. So, really, I'm just trying to establish if there is a way of actually testing the MF-28 on the spot, in a way that would give me any kind of indication whether the unit is approaching the end of its life. Or better still: Was the issue with the LCD addressed and mitigated later in the production? When was the MF-28 discontinued and what serial number range should I be interested in? Also, does Nikon still service this product? How much does it cost to replace the LCD? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The MF-28 is very chunky. It would add considerable weight to the already hefty F5. Since all I really need is to enter the date and time into the "onboard computer", the MF-27 seems like an option I should definitely consider, if I knew for a fact that there is, indeed, communication between its clock and the camera's CPU. Can anyone confirm this? I would also need to know that the LCD on the MF-27 does not fade away in the same manner that it does on the MF-28.
Thanks, Marc! Well, I pretty much thought that that was the case with the MF-27, hoping to be wrong. I wouldn't judge this thing based on the number of contacts but you're probably right. Plus, that quote from the Photo Secretary's manual does indicate very strongly that the only way to input the date/time is, indeed, via the MF-28.
I couldn't find any information on the serial numbers and production dates of the MF-28. That info may be buried in those thousands of hits I get on google, where they talk about "Manual Focus" ("MF"), 28 mm lenses.
One useful piece of information is the serial number. If I come across an MF-28 with a serial number in that range, I will probably pass because the unit would have been manufactured around the beginning to mid-production run.
Canon Date CodesBecause they are chronological, serial numbers usually do tell the approximateage of a Canon SLR or SLR lens, but Canon Inc. has never put out any sort ofpublic information about serial numbers. However, the is another way to get the informationabout a camera body or lens. For cameras, lookinside the body's film chamber for an alphanumeric code printed in black ink onthe black surface of the film chamber. You may have to hold the camera under astrong light to see it. What you'll see is a date code, possibly something like"U1140F."The first letter tells the year the camera was manufactured: in this case,1980. It's an alphabetic code; A = 1960, B = 1961,....T = 1979, U = 1980, andso on up to Z = 1985. The next 2 numbers tell you what month the camera wasmade, in this example, November. (the leading zero for the month code issometimes omitted, so an A-1 with a code of "Y362" would have been manufacturedin March, 1984, for instance.) The following 2 numbers are an internal codethat is irrelevant for determining age, but year and month is close enoughanyway, IMO. (This internal code is also occasionally omitted based on reportsfrom Canon owners.) The last letter stands for the name of the factory. In thiscase, "F" stands for Fukushima which was the main Canon SLR factory for about20 years from the early 70s until 1991. (The factory code is rarely omitted, ifever.) So a body with the Code "U1140F" was made in November of 1980 at the Fukushima factory.Starting in 1986, the year code was restarted with "A" again, but the factorycode was placed before it. Now that Canon SLRs are no longer manufactured atFukushima, you're more likely to see a code starting with "O" for Oita. So, forSLRs manufactured in 1994, you might see a code starting with "OI" followed bythe month code. Letter Year A 1986, 1960 B 1987, 1961 C 1988, 1962 D 1989, 1963 E 1990, 1964 F 1991, 1965 G 1992, 1966 H 1993, 1967 I 1994, 1968 J 1995, 1969 K 1996, 1970 L 1997, 1971 M 1998, 1972 N 1999, 1973 O 2000, 1974 P 2001, 1975 Q 2002, 1976 R 2003, 1977 S 2004, 1978 T 2005, 1979 U 2006, 1980 V 2007, 1981 W 2008, 1982 X 2009, 1983 Y 2010, 1984 Z 2011, 1985 The same type of code is printed on the back of many (but not all) EF lenses aswell, typically in small white characters on a black baffle in the rear lensmount. Normally it will read somethings like "UT0308". The "U" is the factory, the "T" is theyear of manufacture (2005), the "03" is the month (March) and the final two numbers seem to besome sort of internal Canon code. Priorto 1986 the lens date codes did not include the factory letter. Copyright Bob Atkins All Rights Reservedwww.bobatkins.com
Since Nikon does not publish sales of individual models, those numbers can only be derived from the serial numbers of camera bodies. Fortunately, this is a rather simple task for the single digit D-series. Nikon does not use regional serial numbers like on the lower positioned cameras. If a serial starts with 2000001, the numbering scheme is the same for the entire production run. It is safe to assume that the numbering is sequentially, as it is with the lenses. 2ff7e9595c
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